Features:
• Thickly upholstered
• Steel ball bearings
• 24.5Lx30Wx40H”
• Glider and Ottoman Set
• Smooth Gliding Movement,
• Nontoxic Natural Finish , Frame Constructed of Hardwood
• Features Locking Positions, Padded Arms
• Shades of Sage
• Ideal for Being Comfortable While Nursing Baby, TV Watching, Lulling Baby to Sleep, Relaxation
• Multi-Position Locking
• Assembly Required
• Wipe Clean with Damp Cloth

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Features:
• Glider and Ottoman Set
• Smooth Gliding Movement,
• Nontoxic Ebony Finish , Frame Constructed of Hardwood
• Features Locking Positions, Padded Arms
• Microfiber Upholstery
• Ideal for Being Comfortable While Nursing Baby, TV Watching, Lulling Baby to Sleep, Relaxation
• Adjustable Locking
• Assembly Required
• Wipe Clean with Damp Cloth

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Product Description
New Black Bycast LEATHERETTE OTTOMAN BENCH WITH STORAGE Comfortable Ottoman Bench also serves as a storage chest. Dimensions: 38″ Wide x 20″ Deep x 19″ High. Easy assembly required only to

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Features:
• 42″W 17″D 16.5″H
• Living Room
• Living Room->Footstools and Ottomans
• Some assembly may be required. Please see product details.

Product Description
Brown Vinyl Storage Ottoman Coffee Table with Trays

* Dimension: 42″W 17″D 16.5″H
* Finish: Dark Brown
* Material: Leather Like Vinyl
* Contemporary Leather Like Vinyl Storage Ottomans
* Item features three flip top trays.
* Simple assembly required.

List Price: $329.99
Buy : $139.69

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Product Description
Decorative storage ottoman great for storing items and is also stylish piece of furniture

Features:
• Square-shaped faux-leather storage ottoman
• 100-percent PVC shell and 100-percent non-woven liner
• Can be used for additional seating or as a footrest or bedside table
• Removable top; spacious interior; folds flat when not in use
• Measures approximately 15-3/5 by 15-3/5 by 16 inches

Color: Brown
Shipping Weight (lbs): 6.8
Dimensions (in): 15.6 x 16.1 x 15.6

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The most common problem is that the air conditioner is not blowing cold air. There are approximately 7 different causes for this.

Here are some problems that occur from inside the house:

1. The main problem usually occurs with the filter just inside the air conditioning unit panel. Generally people can change the filter themselves, but they neglect changing their air conditioning filter once a month and it ends up clogging. When the filter gets blocked, the condenser
Fins on the inside part of the heating system can not “breath” which causes it to freeze up, literally. Be certain to change your filter and try turning the unit off for a few hours to allow any ice to thaw.

There is one thing people may not realize. The most important function of an air conditioning unit is to take OUT the heated air inside the house, not to cool the house down. When the unit takes the hot air out, it replaces it with the cold air sifting through the freon filled condenser fins. Untrained persons tend to think that the unit turns the hot air to cold air, which is false.

2. A different problem could be that the inside condenser fins might be clogged also because it caught the debris from the dirty air filter. There are special fin brushes you can buy to get the majority of it cleaned.

3. In addition, a low freon pressure could also be the culprit. The ideal pressure reading should be around 65-70 psi so you will need freon gauges to get a reading from the high side (the larger of the two freon lines). Freon can slowly escape from the outside unit over time. That is why the unit must be serviced occasionally. A set of pressure gauges can be bought if you want to check the psi yourself, but you will not be able to add freon. The reason for this is because you need an EPA license to work with freon. If you do need freon, companies will charge somewhere around $18 per pound per unit to install.

4. When the thermostat is turned down low and the unit inside is not coming on at all it could be caused by the condenser fan motor. Wire connections could be burning up or may have been loosened by vibration. When this happens, it needs to be replaced.

Problems from outside the house:

If the inside unit is on and there is no cool air, check the outside unit because it may not be turned on.

1. The outside condenser fan may be burnt out. A professional must service the outside unit for safety purposes. If the inside unit is running and the outside is not then the outside condenser will heat up and shut down until it has cooled off. This can also cause the seals inside the condenser to warp or even melt. First turn off the power to the unit. Next, the top part of the air conditioning housing needs to come off with an ordinary screwdriver. The fan is attached to the top lid and can also be easily unscrewed. Disconnect the corresponding wires and label them to allow with easy re-installation. After the wires are connected back, turn the power back on and attach everything the same way it came off. It’s one of the easier tasks to handle.

2. The contactor may also be malfunctioning. You can tell this by a buzzing noise (usually loud). To change this part you must take off the panel located on the backside of the unit. The contactor will look like a box with piston-like features. Again, you will be able to locate it easily by the sound it’s making. Next, turn the power off and check for electricity flow with an Ohm-meter. When you start taking the contactor off, you can either unscrew the mounting brackets first or disconnect the wires. Just make sure you label the wires first so you know which wires connects to each lead. Once the new contactor is mounted you can connect the wires and replace the panel. Another job well done.

3. The outside unit may not be working at all therefore it may not be getting electricity. You can check this by looking at the breakers inside the house and also the breaker box just above the unit outside. In some cases, the connectors to the outside breaker may have melted together and they would have to be changed to a new breaker system or the wires could be hooked up directly with no breaker connection. The direct connection would mainly be used for a temporary fix until a professional can install the breaker.

The most common energy saving water heaters are storage, tankless and solar ones. For outdoors, portable water heaters can be used. Though, the electronic configuration and source of fuel are different, the fundamental principle behind all water heaters is the same. In every water heater, normal cold water (usually tap water) is heated with the help of a heating system. The warm water is then collected via the hot water tap.

Each water heater has its own advantages and disadvantages. Like any other appliances, hot water heaters have certain problems. It is to be noted that water heater restore should be carried out only if you are familiar with the device. In case, you are planning to fix anything, first turn off the water heater, close the water intake and drain off the water. Following is a list of frequent problems of hot water heaters and tips on how to troubleshoot them.

No Hot Water: This may be caused due to a defect in the heating element and/or gas thermocouple. You can exchange these components to troubleshoot the problem by following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Insufficient Hot water: Check the thermostat setting; adjust if it is set too low. An added cause may be due to a defect in the dip tube that will draw out cold water directly without heating. You can consult a expert to fix up this problem.

Too Hot or Too Cold water: This is caused due to changing of the thermostat setting frequently. Try adjusting the setting to the desired temperature of hot water.

Pilot Light Problem: Pilot light may go on and off repeatedly, try to relight the pilot light. If this doesn’t work, call a serviceman to fix it up. The problem may be due to draft, defective thermocouple or dirt in the gas line that clogs the pilot line.

Smelly Hot Water: This problem is ordinary with hot water heaters installed with magnesium anode rod. Smell in hot water may be due to presence of impurities, especially microorganisms like bacteria. Clean by flushing the water heater with chlorine water. To solve this problem, you can consider replacing an aluminum anode rod.

Noisy Water Heater: Noises can be due to contraction and increase of metal equipments or scale formation inside the water heater. The latter case can be solved by flushing the water heater once per month.

Slow Hot Water Recovery: It can be due to sediment accumulation or problems in burner operation and air combustion.

Leaking Water Tank: It is a usual problem, especially with old tanks due to corrosion or other reasons. The only solution is to replace a water tank.

Create a headboard for a garden themed room by placing a section of picket fence at the top of the bed. You can use a distressed, found piece of fence that you have cleaned up, or purchase a brand new plastic length of fence from the hardware store. Have it cut to the width of the bed or have it cover the entire wall so you can put both the bed and side tables in front of it.

Use a wedding or garden gazebo as a canopy headboard. The piece will arch over the top part of the bed and you can hang fabric from it to form the headboard and canopy drape. Adorn it with flowers and place a picket fence bench at the foot of the bed to complete the look.

A hockey goal is the perfect size and shape to use in the place of a headboard in a boys room. Just place it as-is at the top of the bed. With it facing inward, it will gently curve around the top of the bed. With it facing the wall, it will give you a somewhat sturdy headboard on which you can lean your pillows. You can add buttons with hockey sayings onto the netting to finish the look, or your child can borrow it to take outside and play and then put back in place when finished. Using hockey sticks for curtain rods would complete the look.

Bi-fold doors and standing screens also make excellent headboards. You can upholster them with fabric and batting or if they are see-through, you can staple (or glue of the item is metal
) fabric to the backside. You can attach it to the wall with a couple of screws at the top.

A cork wall would double as a great place to hang posters and notes as well as a neat headboard for a teen’s room. Just purchase cork squares or rolls and install according to the manufacturers instructions. You can then paint, stamp, or leave the cork wall in its natural state. Add special decorative pushpins in floral or sports shapes to finish off the look. You can also cut the corkboard into shapes before installing on the wall.

Shutters are also a great substitute for a headboard. You can transform it with a distressed paint finish and mount them on the wall. You will need two shutters for a twin bed
, and four for a king sized bed.

A fireplace mantel either found in the attic or purchased new, also makes a great headboard. Just attach fabric-covered plywood to the opening and place behind the head of the bed.

For a quick headboard for a king sized bed, turn a door on its side and mount on the wall. Alternatively, you can choose to build a frame for it with legs so you can stand it on the floor. The door can be plain, painted, carved, or upholstered.

source: essortment

Time to complete job: A painted wooden door may take half a day to strip, including repairing any holes and cracks.
Approximate budget: Heat guns cost from around £15 in DIY stores.

Safety: Dealing with lead paint

Older houses (pre-1960) may have lead-based paint on the woodwork. You can buy a home testing kit from DIY stores that will indicate if lead is present and suggest ways of removing it safely. It is generally safer to use a chemical stripper than a heat gun to remove lead paint. Always avoid sanding or scraping dry paint as this can spread the lead particles. Visit the FAQs on the British Coatings Federation website for more advice on the best way to deal with lead paint.

Stripping with chemicals

Chemical strippers are usually gels that will stay on vertical surfaces as the paint is softened by the chemical reaction. They are often the best way of stripping old woodwork. Be sure to open all doors and windows and don’t work if the weather is very warm as the solvents will dissolve too quickly to work properly.

You will need:

-Heat gun
-Scrapers
-Shavehook
-Dust sheets
-Goggles
-Old paintbrush
-Dust mask
-Rubber gloves
-Nylon abrasive pads
-Chemical stripper
-Bucket of water

Step 1: Preparation

Spread dustsheets around the area and pour some of the stripper into a small container. Screw the lid back on to the container to stop it evaporating as you work.

Use an old paintbrush to dab the stripper over the woodwork.

Tip: Have a bucket of cold water handy in case of accidents. Wear rubber gloves and long sleeves to protect your skin and goggles if you need to work overhead.

Step 2: Stripping

Leave the stripper to soften the paint until the surface layers can be easily scraped off – test it every few minutes. Remove any paint from spindles, handrails and other mouldings with a shaped scraper called a spokeshave and a coarse nylon abrasive pad.

Tip: Work on no more than about half a square metre (1/2 yd) of woodwork at a time so that the stripper does not evaporate before you have scraped off the paint.

Step 3: Neutralising

When you have scraped off as much paint as possible, neutralise the stripper with plenty of warm water or white spirit (follow the maker’s instructions). Rub over the surface with a nylon pad to clean off the paint residue and allow to dry for at least 24 hours before varnishing or painting.

Step 4: Paint stripping with a heat gun

Heat guns use a lot of electric current so always fully unwind any extension lead so that it doesn’t overheat. If you’re working indoors, make sure it’s in a well-ventilated room.

Only use a heat gun on flat areas of wood, such as door panels, because the heat can scorch delicate mouldings. Keep the gun moving gently about 50mm (2in) from the surface and scrape away the paint when it begins to bubble.

Tip: You can fit a heat shield to the nozzle to protect glass from the heat when stripping window frames.

source: uktv

Time to complete job: 3 hours plus drying time
Approximate budget: From £15

Tip: Ideally, paint your windows in the morning to maximise drying time. Depending on the drying conditions, this should leave your windows enough time to dry before you need to close them for the night.

You will need:

• Protective sheets

• A damp sponge,

• A sanding block

• Masking tape,

• Paint

• A small one-inch paintbrush

Step 1: Preparation – cleaning

To avoid any stains, start by protecting your surfaces with sheets.

Sound paintwork should be washed with a sponge and sugar soap. It’s vital to remove any dirt, grease or loose material before you decorate as you don’t want to ruin the final appearance or deal with flaking paint later on. Wash thoroughly but make sure you don’t soak the wood as it will need to be fully dry before you paint.

Step 2: Preparation – sanding

Rub the woodwork down with a sanding block to provide a smooth surface ready to receive the new paint. Bear in mind that old paintwork may contain lead which is a potential health risk. If you’re not sure, it may be worth calling in a professional. Any defects or bare patches you uncover will need to be touched up with a little undercoat before decorating.

Step 3: Masking off the glass

Using masking tape, mask off the glass close to the wood (but not quite touching it). As a general rule, your undercoat should not touch the glass but you can let your overcoat lap onto your glass by no more than 2mm.

Step 4: Begin painting

Painting a sash window can seem an awkward task but the secret is in moving the sashes as you work. Start by lifting the inner bottom sash, and lowering the outer top sash. Try to expose at least half of the now lower outer sash. Start painting in the centre and work outwards, painting the cross-bars first before moving onto the side-rails.

It may take a few windows for you to achieve a good brushing technique but start by not over-painting or being over-careful. Remember – smooth, relaxed strokes will yield the best results.

Step 5: Rotate the sashes & finish painting

Now you can rotate the sashes by pushing down the inner sash and using the unpainted crossbar of the outer sash to pull it up. This will expose all the unpainted areas which can now be blended in to the previously painted woodwork. If you are painting the sill as well, leave this till last. Lift the lower sash up to give you enough access.

Step 6: Drying & finishing

Leave the windows in this final position until the paint is nearly dry and then remove any masking tape you have left. This should be peeled back on itself at a slight angle away from the edge. Take it off slowly as ripping may cause damage to the paintwork.

Finally, use a bladed paint scraper to remove any spots of paint from the glass or to trim the edges.

source: uktv