Time to complete job: A painted wooden door may take half a day to strip, including repairing any holes and cracks.
Approximate budget: Heat guns cost from around £15 in DIY stores.

Safety: Dealing with lead paint

Older houses (pre-1960) may have lead-based paint on the woodwork. You can buy a home testing kit from DIY stores that will indicate if lead is present and suggest ways of removing it safely. It is generally safer to use a chemical stripper than a heat gun to remove lead paint. Always avoid sanding or scraping dry paint as this can spread the lead particles. Visit the FAQs on the British Coatings Federation website for more advice on the best way to deal with lead paint.

Stripping with chemicals

Chemical strippers are usually gels that will stay on vertical surfaces as the paint is softened by the chemical reaction. They are often the best way of stripping old woodwork. Be sure to open all doors and windows and don’t work if the weather is very warm as the solvents will dissolve too quickly to work properly.

You will need:

-Heat gun
-Scrapers
-Shavehook
-Dust sheets
-Goggles
-Old paintbrush
-Dust mask
-Rubber gloves
-Nylon abrasive pads
-Chemical stripper
-Bucket of water

Step 1: Preparation

Spread dustsheets around the area and pour some of the stripper into a small container. Screw the lid back on to the container to stop it evaporating as you work.

Use an old paintbrush to dab the stripper over the woodwork.

Tip: Have a bucket of cold water handy in case of accidents. Wear rubber gloves and long sleeves to protect your skin and goggles if you need to work overhead.

Step 2: Stripping

Leave the stripper to soften the paint until the surface layers can be easily scraped off – test it every few minutes. Remove any paint from spindles, handrails and other mouldings with a shaped scraper called a spokeshave and a coarse nylon abrasive pad.

Tip: Work on no more than about half a square metre (1/2 yd) of woodwork at a time so that the stripper does not evaporate before you have scraped off the paint.

Step 3: Neutralising

When you have scraped off as much paint as possible, neutralise the stripper with plenty of warm water or white spirit (follow the maker’s instructions). Rub over the surface with a nylon pad to clean off the paint residue and allow to dry for at least 24 hours before varnishing or painting.

Step 4: Paint stripping with a heat gun

Heat guns use a lot of electric current so always fully unwind any extension lead so that it doesn’t overheat. If you’re working indoors, make sure it’s in a well-ventilated room.

Only use a heat gun on flat areas of wood, such as door panels, because the heat can scorch delicate mouldings. Keep the gun moving gently about 50mm (2in) from the surface and scrape away the paint when it begins to bubble.

Tip: You can fit a heat shield to the nozzle to protect glass from the heat when stripping window frames.

source: uktv

Time to complete job: 3 hours plus drying time
Approximate budget: From £15

Tip: Ideally, paint your windows in the morning to maximise drying time. Depending on the drying conditions, this should leave your windows enough time to dry before you need to close them for the night.

You will need:

• Protective sheets

• A damp sponge,

• A sanding block

• Masking tape,

• Paint

• A small one-inch paintbrush

Step 1: Preparation – cleaning

To avoid any stains, start by protecting your surfaces with sheets.

Sound paintwork should be washed with a sponge and sugar soap. It’s vital to remove any dirt, grease or loose material before you decorate as you don’t want to ruin the final appearance or deal with flaking paint later on. Wash thoroughly but make sure you don’t soak the wood as it will need to be fully dry before you paint.

Step 2: Preparation – sanding

Rub the woodwork down with a sanding block to provide a smooth surface ready to receive the new paint. Bear in mind that old paintwork may contain lead which is a potential health risk. If you’re not sure, it may be worth calling in a professional. Any defects or bare patches you uncover will need to be touched up with a little undercoat before decorating.

Step 3: Masking off the glass

Using masking tape, mask off the glass close to the wood (but not quite touching it). As a general rule, your undercoat should not touch the glass but you can let your overcoat lap onto your glass by no more than 2mm.

Step 4: Begin painting

Painting a sash window can seem an awkward task but the secret is in moving the sashes as you work. Start by lifting the inner bottom sash, and lowering the outer top sash. Try to expose at least half of the now lower outer sash. Start painting in the centre and work outwards, painting the cross-bars first before moving onto the side-rails.

It may take a few windows for you to achieve a good brushing technique but start by not over-painting or being over-careful. Remember – smooth, relaxed strokes will yield the best results.

Step 5: Rotate the sashes & finish painting

Now you can rotate the sashes by pushing down the inner sash and using the unpainted crossbar of the outer sash to pull it up. This will expose all the unpainted areas which can now be blended in to the previously painted woodwork. If you are painting the sill as well, leave this till last. Lift the lower sash up to give you enough access.

Step 6: Drying & finishing

Leave the windows in this final position until the paint is nearly dry and then remove any masking tape you have left. This should be peeled back on itself at a slight angle away from the edge. Take it off slowly as ripping may cause damage to the paintwork.

Finally, use a bladed paint scraper to remove any spots of paint from the glass or to trim the edges.

source: uktv

Contrary to popular belief, matte is not always better. A glossy finish causes the light to reflect therefore tricking the eye into seeing a smooth finish. Why? Your eye only focuses on the reflection of the light, which then blurs the imperfections of the wall. It also distracts from brush strokes and other painting imperfections. A matte finish doesn’t reflect light and so you are seeing every little defect of the wall. However, it’s best to go semi-gloss since high-gloss will highlight imperfections rather than distract from them.

Ultimately there are two kinds of paint, oil based (also known as solvent based) and latex paint (also known as water based). Yes, there are other paints on the market but these are the two options you will be sure to find at any paint store.

Oil based paint is made of oil and resins. This paint is thin and will glide onto surfaces easily however it is very difficult to clean up. This paint also requires the use of products such as paint thinner, turpentine, and primer. It is smelly and more toxic than latex. However, it is more durable than latex paint but it costs more and is overall more difficult to use.

Latex paint is thicker than oil based. This means if done right it is more likely to leave you with a smooth finish, sometimes in just one coat. It’s also very easy to clean up since it just takes water and soap. Latex paint is supposedly less durable than oil based, but most latex paints claim to last 15-20 years or so. And best of all latex is healthier. The fumes are much less dangerous than with oil based. All of these reasons are why latex is the preferred choice of paint.

Primer is a great way to ensure a smooth finish. Primer is different than paint. It is meant to fill in any rough spots to create a smooth even surface on which to paint. It also creates a barrier so less paint is absorbed into the wall so the paint adheres to a primed wall better. Acrylic / Latex primers are used for interior purposes. This means that you will also need to use latex paint. You know that cliché “water and oil don’t mix.” This is an example of it. You can use water based paint (latex) on top of oil based primer but the reverse is guaranteed to not give you that smooth finish you want. So it’s best to just stick with water based and water based. When shopping for primer be sure to check the label. Paint and primer are generally sold in the same section so the label will be your sure way to tell the difference.

If you have the money, the best smooth finish paints on the market are high end emulsions. They are made to evenly disperse the combination of molecules of the paint. Emulsions are ultimately fancy water based paint. However, a good latex primer with semi-gloss latex paint carefully rolled onto the walls will give you just about the same smooth finish for less money. Or you can go in between the price ranges. There are a lot of paints specifically labeled “for a smooth finish,” but most people would agree there’s usually only a small difference between the less and more expensive paints.

Last of all, remember that preparation of your walls and your painting technique also play a large role in getting a smooth finish. Spackle holes and dents in the wall and sand the rough patches when dry. Prime thoroughly. Then paint with a roller in almost vertical lines (like very narrow w’s) moving quickly so these lines won’t become visible. Clean up, let dry, and enjoy your beautiful smooth finish walls.
By Sarah Eve Nichols

The bedroom is where you stay to relax and unwind after a long day of work. As such, it is very important that the design of this room features a peaceful and calming ambiance. A beautiful and serene bedroom will allow you to get a good night’s sleep. You can make your bedroom more relaxing by redecorating it. This is an easy task which you can do on your own. Apart from this, it allows you to add a personal touch so that the room will reflect your personality.

The right wall paint can set the right atmosphere in the room so you better choose soothing soft colors. Continue working with the color scheme by using bed covers that belong to the same shade. Add small throw pillows with rich texture to create accent.
You can also color coordinate the room curtains by using fabric with the same color value. Choose pale colored drapes to make the room more interesting.

Decorate your room with simple yet beautiful items. Display small plants in your side table to add a touch of life to the room. Complete the mood by using dim and soft lights. Use a soft glow of yellow to create a cozy feeling.

Here’s How:

1. Because sponging adds the look of texture and depth to the walls, this is a good technique for walls that have some irregularities in the finish. Prepare your walls for painting and select your paint. Be sure to practice this technique with your color choices on a piece of board before applying it to the walls.
2. Paint the walls in your room with the base paint color of your choice. Choose a flat, eggshell, satin or semi-gloss interior paint.
3. Thoroughly mix 1 part of your second (top) color of paint with 4 parts of faux glaze in a big bucket. The more glaze you add, the more transparent the top coat will be. If you want the top coat to be darker or denser, use less faux glaze.
4. Using a damp, natural sea sponge, dip into the bucket of glaze and blot or wipe the excess off.
5. Start by lightly pressing the sponge into the corners. Tamp the sponge onto the wall in a random pattern, leaving a thin coat of glaze on the surface of the under coat of paint.
6. As you work do not press down too hard, or you will get too much glaze on the surface.
7. Roll the sponge over the surface to achieve a random appearance.
8. When the glaze is depleted on the sponge, re-dip it and continue working around the room. Work on a small area at a time, always keeping the edge of the painted area wet.
9. A small piece of sponge can be used to touch up small areas, get into corners, and help create a consistent and random finish.
10. Stand back from the wall to and make sure that the whole area has the same portion of undercoat and glaze showing.

Tips:

1. If you choose a light color for the base coat, the glaze of a darker tone will darken the look of the room.
2. To achieve a lighter look, choose a glaze color which is lighter than the base coat.
3. Choose a base coat and glaze color that are close in intensity and tone. Too much contrast will produce a splotchy, spotted look.
4. Be sure to use a natural sea sponge, not a synthetic sponge. Don’t forget to wear plastic or rubber gloves, as you’ll get the glaze all over your hands.
5. Begin sponging in the corners and work out. Always keep the wall and the sponge damp.

What You Need:

• Paint tray and liner, and paint roller
• Natural sea sponge, bucket, stirring stick, and rubber gloves
• Base paint to cover all the walls
• Top coat paint and faux glaze

Courtesy of  about.com