Here are a few simple steps from FTD.com you can use to ensure that your flowers last longer:

* Pick flowers in early morning or in the evening, when stems are fully hydrated and not stressed from midday heat.

* Take a tall bucket with lukewarm water with you and immerse the stems as you gather.

* Cut the stems on an angle with a sharp, clean knife or pruners, to allow greater uptake of water through the stem.

* Once all the flowers are gathered, re-cut the stems underwater and strip away any foliage that will fall below the waterline once stems are placed in a vase.

* Arrange the flowers in a clean vase filled with room-temperature water and floral food.

* Place arrangements out of direct sunlight and away from any drafty areas.

Here are some other tips from FTD.com that will make creating a bouquet from your flower garden an easy and rewarding task:

* Use a mixture of focal flowers like lilies, roses and peonies; filler flowers like gypsophila, lady’s mantle and Queen Anne’s Lace and line flowers like liatrus, larkspur and delphinium. Using these three types of flowers will make your arrangement a dynamic piece of art you will be proud to display.

* A beautiful trend in flower arrangements is to include ornamental grasses, such as wheat, zebra grasses and millet grasses to add texture and interest to your garden and bouquets.

* Some of the foliage that you are stripping from the stems of your flowers may be used as an ornamental green in your bouquet, adding another level of texture into your arrangement.

* Choose interesting containers and vases with a touch of color and texture to bring out the beauty of your arrangement.

* Be aware that certain flowers will not re-bloom for up to two years after being cut. This is mostly true for bulb plants, such as daffodils and tulips.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

When designing your own wildflower garden, the objective is to evoke an impression of at least one of the three main types of natural wildflower gardens: woodland, meadow, or prairie.

To achieve this, try to use plants that are native to your state or local area. You will also need to choose the location with which to place your wildflower garden. Depending on the type of garden you choose, almost any spot is ideal for growing wildflowers. Create a lovely meadow or prairie in an open field. Use an existing woodline as a backdrop for a natural woodland garden. Perhaps your ideal location is too small to accommodate all of your favorite wildflowers. If this is the case, you may want to consider trying a container garden. Whatever the choice, keep in mind that there are numerous books available to help get you started.

Woodland gardens are mostly composed of flowering plants, grasses, shrubs, and trees. Woodland wildflowers, such as the crested iris and creeping phlox, usually grow and bloom in early spring; while other late-blooming plants like asters and goldenrods provide abundant foliage early in the year. When designing a woodland garden, include layers of plants as they would be found in their natural setting. Woodland plants like moist, humus-rich soil that is usually found in shady areas. These plants develop sturdy, evergreen leaves in order to survive the continuous shade.

The native wildflowers become accustomed to and adapt well to the low-light levels year-round. You can easily create a woodland wildflower garden by planting smaller trees, shrubs, hostas, native ferns, and wildflowers such as mountain anemone; bleeding heart; wild ginger; and hepatica underneath a large shade tree in your yard.

In a meadow garden, wildflowers bloom sporadically throughout the season filling them with brilliant colors and astounding fragrances. Native meadow wildflowers produce flowers mainly during the summer and fall seasons. Most meadows contain both grasses and wildflowers. Generally, meadow wildflowers can survive in thin, poor-to-average soil. Commonly found wildflowers may include the following: black-eyed Susans, butterfly weed, lilies, asters, coneflowers, liatris, blanket flowers, and joe-pye weed.

When planting a meadow wildflower garden, you will need to decide how closely you want to imitate nature by studying the surrounding natural meadows in your area. The meadow garden is reasonably easy to care for once established. Giving your garden an annual mowing to keep woody plants at bay should suffice.

Prairie wildflower gardens tend to mix vivid flower colors with the overwhelming greens and golds of native prairie grasses. A natural prairie is nothing more than open grassland. Throughout the growing season wildflowers will bloom and add beauty to this low, cushion-like environment while the numerous grasses provide an abundance of foliage. Prairie plants need deep, loamy soil. You can convert a treeless area of lawn into a prairie by planting an array of grasses such as prairie dropseed, switch grass, or Indian grass along with wildflowers that may include prairie clover; goldenrod; bluebells; butterfly weed; and prairie onion. Keeping this area clear of woody growth is essential in order for these prairie grasses and wildflowers to thrive.

Another easy way to grow wildflowers is in containers. There are a wide variety of containers available to choose from. The only factor to consider when growing wildflowers by this method is good drainage. You will also want to bear in mind that choosing pots that are porous, such as those made of clay, will require frequent watering. Some good choices for container growing are sweet alyssum, baby’s breath, coreopsis, poppies, purple coneflowers, and black-eyed Susan’s.

Wildflowers can also adapt easily to rock garden environments. These can be created for sun or partial shade and for dry or moist conditions. Prairie phlox, blue-eyed grass, bottle gentian, and wild columbine are just some of the many varieties that work well with rock gardens.

Wildflowers spread naturally and are normally more trouble-free and easier to maintain than other garden flowers. They are self-sufficient and can basically get by on their own. Wildflower gardens are also usually less expensive and generally easier to prepare. All that is actually required is the removal of non-essential, existing growth. However; to succeed with wildflower gardening, you should learn about the native environments of plants you want to grow as well as those indigenous to your local area. You will certainly want to avoid any aggressive wildflowers with which will overtake your garden. Before starting your wildflower garden, you should take into account the native plants with which may already be located on your property. The availability of light is also important. This can determine the difference between a meadow and prairie garden verses a woodland garden. Different plants require or tolerate different degrees of shade or light. There are numerous gardening books available that provide guidelines for various species. When creating designs with wildflowers, be sure to use plants that bloom at various intervals.

This will create a longer flowering season. Mix a number of different heights, shapes, and textures to give your wildflower garden depth. Include plants with attractive and colorful foliage, such as ferns and ornamental grasses
, to keep your garden looking charming during particular times of the year when there may not be a great deal of flowers in bloom.

There are few plants more impressive than a sunflower. Some varieties grow from seed to twelve feet in a single growing season. They can grow as much as a foot a day. When plants are grouped or massed, the flower display is wonderful. The botanical name for sunflower is Helianthus annuus. As one might guess by the name, the plant is an annual. It grows, flowers and dies in one growing season. Helianthus is a Native American plant that was first adapted for commercial use in Russia. Sunflower seeds are squeezed to extract oil for cooking. They are roasted for human consumption and dried for outdoor bird feeding. Cut flowers
are sold by florists. They are easy to grow at home.

The first thing to do is pick a variety to grow. Each year, more and more varieties are added to the commercial seed market. They are tall, medium and short. Flowers range from yellow to red to burgundy. There are also single-stemmed and multiple stemmed varieties. You can choose by size, color, number of stems, or type of seed. Sunflowers come in two seed varieties, black and grey-striped. Black seeds are smaller with thinner shells more easily cracked by outdoor birds. Black seeds are also higher in oil content than the grey-striped. Grey-striped seeds are larger and meatier with a harder, thicker shell. This kind is good for roasting and use in baking.

Once you have chosen the type of sunflower you want to grow, pick a planting site that gets full sun all day long. The tall plants are likely to get leggy and fall over under the weight of the large flower head if they are shaded. If the site is very windy, you may need to add some type of support for the future plants, such as a wooden stake or low trellis to which plants can be tied. Put in any support at planting time, not later, to avoid root damage. While sunflowers are heat and drought tolerant, their sturdy, upright stalks will grow taller with regular watering. Plan how you will get water to the planting site.

Sunflowers are not picky about soil. If you are planning on growing a giant sunflower plant, the kind seen entered in county fair competitions, you will need to add organic matter to the soil. Compost and rotted manure are good choices. Seeds can be sown directly into the garden about a week before the last expected frost of the winter. Plant the seeds about 1 inch deep. If you intend to grow multiple plants, plant them two or three feet apart to get the biggest heads. If seeds are what you want, this is the way to go. If you are more interested in a floral display, plant them a foot apart. Sunflowers take about a hundred days to grow. If you live in a climate with a short growing season, you may start seeds indoors in peat pots, newspaper pots, or some other pot that can be set into the garden whole without disturbing the plant’s root system. Water and keep soil moist until sprouts appear. You may need to cover the soil with wire mesh or plastic berry baskets to keep birds from taking the seed before it sprouts. Water regularly and keep weeds at bay until plants are a foot tall, then mulch to conserve moisture.

When your plants bloom in mid-summer, they will attract bees and other beneficial insects that love the pollen and nectar. If you want to cut flowers for use in a vase of water, do so. If not picked, flower petals shrivel up and seeds form. If you want to harvest seeds, wait until the florets in the center have dried up, and then cover the flower heads with paper bags to keep the birds from feasting. When the seeds have formed and changed from white to grey-striped or black, cut off the seed head leaving about 2 feet of stem on it and hang in a dry place to dry. Rub the seeds out of the head and use as you want.

You will enjoy growing these beauties, but be careful handling and rubbing against the plant leaves because some people get a rash from contact. If you plan to grow shorter plants under the sunflowers, note that sunflowers give off a chemical that inhibits the growth of other plants. Whether you grow sunflowers for their flowers or their seeds, you will get a lot of joy for very little work.

The majority of flower borders are generally planted along a fence or other boundary in a landscape. However, they can also edge the sides of walkways or driveways. The charming edges of a flower border set off by an area of plants, mulch, or other type of decorative edging not only is more pleasing to the eye, but it can also cut down on the amount of time spent with mundane yard maintenance such as mowing.

To budget both time and money, plant the bed in stages. Consider and plan ahead whether or not there is an adequate amount of lawn space, availability of structures, trees, or shrubs that can be used to incorporate a flower border. You will need to design borders in such a way that the size and shape will complement one another as well as the surrounding landscape. Make your border large enough to generate a pleasing visual impression, yet, small enough for easy maintenance. Keep the border in proportion with the length as well. The length of the border is normally determined by the overall size of the landscape. Making the border slightly wider will allow the opportunity to use tall, flamboyant flowers. Layering and variation of shape in a border will create a pleasant composition. Grouping taller plants with intense foliage can also screen unsightly areas and provide privacy. A border can have either a straight or curved edge. Curves tend to offer a more casual and informal effect. Straight beds can be made less daunting by arranging flowers in groups rather than in rows. You can also soften straight lines by permitting the bed to curve in the center or near one end. Whether or not to use a straight line or a gentle curve is up to you.

Asters, chrysanthemums, daylilies, irises, and ornamental grasses are good choices for use in flower borders. These can be highlighted with vines, shrubs, or attractive foliage plants. Choosing flowers with long-lasting blooms provide stronger emphasis throughout the changing seasons. For early blooms, peonies, geraniums, columbine, and miscellaneous spring-flowering bulbs can be utilized. Choose goldenrod, asters, mums, or phlox for late blooms. Annuals such as impatiens and dianthus are immediate choices to brighten up existing borders between seasons.

There are many different ways in which borders can be arranged. Double borders usually scamper along both sides of a path or down the sides of property. Most of the time, these borders have straight edges. Edging a double border with brick can make these straight edges more attractive. Formal borders that include roses look quite lovely when they are outlined with low, neatly pruned boxwood. Other formal beds can be placed against dark backgrounds or hedges and stand out nicely when edged with cobblestones. Perennial borders can be edged with a continuous planting of one type of edging plant such as sweet alyssum, hardy pinks, candytuft, or lavender. Depending on the width, borders along a walkway or path can be edged with plants in a straight row or in masses. An island bed is surrounded by lawn. Position an island bed with an irregular shape that will fit the contours of your lawn and border plantings. Place the tallest plants in the center with all other plant heights scaled down towards the outer edge. These can be edged with consistent placement of one plant, such as lamb’s ear, or groups of edging plants. You can also give the island bed an untamed appearance by allowing it to flow into the lawn to mimic a meadow. A mixed border consists of flowers which are placed in groups in and around shrubs and groundcover. Shrubs that are used with this type of border should complement the foliage and growth of the other plants. For further interest, an accent can be integrated. Herbaceous borders can be designed using hedges, walls, or fences as backdrops. These types of borders can provide height and substance to the landscape. Incorporate climbing vegetation such as clematis, climbing roses, or ivy into the background to supply additional beauty. For winter attraction, ornamental grasses can be used. They make natural companions for herbaceous plants like salvia and campanula. A raised bed can save space and can be enclosed with bricks, timbers, or anything that gives shape and holds soil in. Slope these beds to encourage water run off. You can also build up the soil into a mound without any retaining edges.

Flower borders placed around the outer edges of a landscape provide a cleaner and less muddled appearance than numerous, traditional small beds. They can be worked into nearly any property. With the use of low-growing plants that have interesting foliage texture and defined edges from stones or other types of edging your border should contrast well with and add character to the flowers and surrounding lawn.

We are well into the summer months and that means more and more time outdoors. Surprisingly, too many homeowners rarely use their decks. Maybe the furniture leaves much to be desired, or perhaps the wood is faded or damaged. Well it’s time to stop ignoring your outdoor deck because with a little work, you can turn it into a comfortable outdoor room and add more living space to your home.
Whether your deck is bleak and gray or just never used, it can easily become an extension of your home. Depending on your needs, you can make it into a place to relax, entertain or just have fun.

Under the gray
If you have an older deck or one that hasn’t been cared for, it probably looks worn out and dingy. Believe it or not, you can make that deck look new again by simply cleaning and restaining it.
Before you begin your cleaning job, inspect your deck. Fix any loose nails and replace rotten boards. Take time to sweep the deck off and remove any debris stuck between boards. Clean your deck well with a solution made specifically for decks. Depending on its condition, it may require some sanding or power washing. Consult you local hardware store for tips and specific instructions on proper cleaning techniques.
Once your deck is clean and shiny again, you may want to stain it. There are many color choices on the market today. Choose a color that matches or compliments your home’s exterior or interior.

Make it fit your lifestyle
With your deck clean, it is time to start adding items that will make it comfortable. Flip through magazines and catalogs for inspiration and ideas, and take look at other people’s decks and outdoor furniture showrooms. Most will give you great ideas for products that you can use on your deck.
Before you purchase anything new, decide how you want to use your deck. “Decks are very individual,” says Al Schaefer of Schaefer’s Home Decorating in St. Cloud, Minnesota. Sherryl Schmid of Hennen’s Furniture in St. Cloud agrees. “Start with comfort and what fits your home. If you have kids, you won’t want glass. If you don’t eat outside, then don’t purchase a table. Make your selections fit your lifestyle.”

It doesn’t matter if you have a small or large deck, just keep in mind how much room you have when adding furniture. Besides a table and chairs, Schmid suggests adding a chaise lounge or a glider rocker. You can also reuse furniture you already have. By simply cleaning it off and adding new cushions or pillows, your old furniture can take on an entirely new look.

Finishing touches
Your deck may look new and you may have the perfect furniture, but it is the finishing touches that show off your personality. Your unique stamp can include plants, statues, arbors, awnings and more.
Plants and flowers are a must. “If your deck is colorful, you will spend more time there,” Schmid says. Pick flowers that color coordinate with your decorating scheme. Also consider the unique pots as part of your finishing touches, after all, terra cotta pots can become a sculptural element.
Homeowners with small decks can enjoy an abundance of colorful flowers by attaching flower boxes around the railing or edge. When trained to climb an arbor or trellis, climbing flowers and vines are perfect for creating shade. You can also add an awning or freestanding umbrella for immediate shade.
You don’t have to stop with flowers and plants. Get creative by adding little fountains or statues to your outdoor room. However, keep in mind the scale of your deck and don’t overdue it with clutter. After you have your finishing touches in place, you’ll be glad you took a second look at your deck and made it your favorite room in the house.

Shari Brennan Shari Brennan has been a professional freelance writer and consultant for more than 10 years. She has a degree in landscape architecture, and has owned and managed interior and exterior landscaping companies. Despite her busy schedule, she always finds time to work in her yard.

source: www.realtor.com

Cool season grasses
Sally Alcock, a horticulturist at Hastings Nature and Garden Center in Atlanta says cool season grasses are hardy grasses that grow best and quickest in the cool weather of the northern United States, or any region with warm summers and cold winters. Some of the most popular types of cool season grasses are Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and rye.

• Kentucky bluegrass: Kentucky bluegrass has fine, rich green leaves that grow on creeping shoots, says Dixie Harpine, a gardening specialist in Orange, Va. Drought-resistant, it grows best in heavily used and sunny areas. However it’s not the best choice if you’re looking for quick cover; it takes up to 21 days to germinate.

• Fescue: Fescue leaves vary from fine to coarse and grow on creeping shoots just as Kentucky bluegrass. And while no grass thrives in deep shade, Harpine says fescues grow well in shady, low-maintenance lawns and are great for quick cover since germination ranges from one to two weeks. Fescues are ideal for urban and heavily used areas because they adapt well to dry conditions and poor soil, and require little fertilizer.

• Rye: Rye grass has medium textured leaves that can be very durable, depending on the variety. Ryes grow well in sunny areas and are the best candidates for quickie ground cover as some can take less than a week to germinate.

Warm season grasses
Warm-season grasses grow best during the summer months, or in areas where frost is rare. When the weather becomes cooler, Alcock says warm season grasses go dormant and turn brown or yellow. The most common warm season grasses are Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine and Centipede.

• Bermuda: Bermuda grass is a fast growing, creeping grass that’s mostly used in the South, Alcock says. Bermuda grass lawns are typically lush, durable and green, with a resistance to disease and insects. Resistant to salt, most Bermuda grass requires moist soil and full sun.

• Centipede: Yellow-green centipede grass sends out many roots from its thick stems, making it look just like…well…a centipede. It flourishes in well-watered, acidic soils as well as light shade. But if you’ve got a house near the beach, this salt-air-intolerant variety isn’t the best option for your lawn.

• St. Augustine: Coarse, blue-green blades of St. Augustine grass spread along the ground to produce a bed of nearly weed proof turf. Best in moist soil and tolerant of salt spray, it can grow in anything from full sun to full shade, depending on how much it is watered and fertilized, Alcock says. The downside: it’s susceptible to “St. Augustine decline,” an incurable lawn disease that gives the blades a mottled appearance.

• Zoysia: Harpine says Zoysia is a grass often-used in coastal areas because it’s salt tolerant. It spreads above and below ground, prospers in sun and shade and is commonly used in seed blends.

Still don’t know what grass is best for you? Then ask your local agriculture extension officer to perform a test on your lawn, says allexperts.com lawn care expert David Luckie. “It’s the best way to discover what types of nutrients, pH and soil type you have so you can pick the best variety or blend of grass for your yard,” he says.

source: www.realtor.com

source: www.realtor.com

Fountains make great focal points, as the bubbling water appeals to many senses.

So what’s a gal to do when her garden gets downsized? Get smart, in the case of Ida Bigner. When the former landscape designer retired to Charleston, S.C., she traded a 2-acre spread, complete with a formal rose garden and magnolias, for a 16-by-23 foot enclosed courtyard. Other green thumbs might have been devastated. But not her.
“It’s real fun, actually,” she says. “I love the idea of having to work out a new design. And it’s totally different. In my old place, I needed maintenance help. Here, I am in tune with every plant, every flower, every leaf. You can’t help but know every square inch. The other day I walked out and noticed something had eaten off the head of a pansy. I’d say that’s getting into

minutia, wouldn’t you?”

If you have a green thumb and a tiny garden space, use window boxes, containers, porches and more as spots for your plants

After less than fourth months, Bigner’s new garden is thriving, though it will truly peak about a year and a half from now. Still, the photos illustrate a point we can all take to heart: Small spaces can make great oases. Here are a few tips for maximizing tiny gardens that work for all zones.

Create a focal point
“Consider the view angles on your space,” says Bigner. “It pays to create a focal point where they intersect.” In her case, the street side entrance, the house entrance and a dining space all looked out onto the far corner of the garden. She added a fountain there, embedding the basin into the surrounding planting. The corner now provides a necessary anchor for the courtyard. Whether your focal point is a birdbath, sculpture, tree or what-have-you, remember it should command attention in your small garden, but not overwhelm it.

Conceal undesirables
Bigner’s focal point is punctuated with a giant air conditioner unit. Her solution—hide it. She built a pierced brick wall around the unit, and it has virtually disappeared. As for other tricks, an azalea covers a switch box, boxwood conceals an outlet and a pair of ferns will soon grow over a spigot.

Container gardening allows you create mini-gardens throughout your "yard," even if that means your front door area.

Use containers
“Container gardening is great because instead of plants growing in the same plane (as they do in a bed) you get a nice height variation,” says Bigner. To add flow, place the containers in corners, near focal points or by beds, rather than in a floating island.

Expand your plant list
“There’s a tendency to want to fill a small space with one or two of the same kinds of plants, in an effort to simplify,” says Bigner. “That’s not the best idea.” Instead, vary the plants subtly, staying within the same color family and adding alternate heights, textures and leaf shapes. This breaks up what would otherwise be a solid block of color, which tends to shrink an area.

Simpify color
“Overall, the most important thing you can do in a small space is keep your colors simple,” says Bigner. “Pick one color scheme—one that soothes—and stick with it.” That means your green plants should been in the same color family and your choice of flowers should compliment each other. Likewise, use containers that are of the same hue.

Appeal to the senses
“You can make a small space seem bigger if you appeal to the senses,” says Bigner. “Really play with the light and sound and movement.” In her garden, that means the trees and shrubs let in enough light to cast dappled shadows. The branches sway in the breezes, drawing your attention upward. And the fountain bubbles in the corner, sounding farther off than it actually is. Each element expands the space, making it seem more open than cramped.

Climb the walls

Use your wall space to "lift" the eye and thus open up a small-space garden.

Don’t waste your space—that means even the walls of a courtyard garden are fair game. Whether you use hanging baskets, creeping vines (like ivy or fig) or artwork, remember the walls provide a clean canvas on which to expand your garden.

Borrow views
When it comes to small gardens, it pays to steal from your neighbors. Look around and take stock of the view. Do you see a large tree, hedge or rooftop that seems like part of your garden? If you can spy it, it is yours—at least in a design sense. Consider these “borrowed views” as extensions to your own garden and layer your elements accordingly.

Branch out
Cloistered gardeners can benefit from branching out of designated garden spaces. To feel less stifled, bring the garden to the windowsill with window boxes, to the doorstop with containers and to the porch with hanging plants.

Play with art
Don’t short yourself on fun just because you’re short on space. Place garden art where it will surprise and add interes—not always in the most obvious places. In Bigner’s garden, a weatherworn birdhouse hides among a handful of terra cotta pots, a relief tile hangs on the wall, and a cherubic little boy kneels under fern fronds.

source: www.realtor.com

All chain-link fences aren’t the same

Chain-link has four elements: fabric, framework, fittings and gates. How you combine them makes all the difference. Each of these components are available in a range of weights (gauges) and types of protective coatings. Providers can mix and match components in an effort to shave costs or differentiate their product. My minimum recommendations will typically follow the minimum practices defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The most common coating is zinc (galvanized), but you’ll also find chain-link components with vinyl or polyester color coatings in addition to zinc. These color treatments enhance landscaping and blend naturally with trees, shrubs and bushes. They’ll also give you even more protection against corrosion or rust.

Some just can’t handle residential wear and tear

A light chain-link system can’t take much abuse. The framework may bend easily, the fabric may distort and animals may easily damage it. Even common occurrences, such as a person climbing or sitting on the fence, heavy wind blowing debris against it or a dog jumping on it may cause damage. Inferior coatings may also allow the components to rust prematurely. Fence manufacturers make products for many different uses, including lightweight, temporary needs. Consumers sometimes buy fencing like this because of its lower price, or because they don’t understand that all fencing is not the same. The result – a “permanent installation” made from materials that weren’t designed for longevity.

Quality tests prove there’s a difference

Tests on light-gauge fences were conducted under the auspices of the Chain-Link Fence Manufacturers Institute (CLFMI). They found that a 75-pound dog and 100-pound child could severely damage or even collapse the lightest-gauge fences. In addition, the CLFMI conducted a study of recent fence buyers to learn what they expected from their chain-link fence. It turned out that once they fully understood their options, 100 percent of these buyers would have selected a heavier fence.

How to choose a chain-link fabric

Select your chain-link fence fabric based on these three criteria: gauge of wire, size of mesh and type of protective coating. Gauge (ga.) or diameter of wire is one of the most important factors – it helps tells you how much steel is actually in the fabric. The smaller the gauge number, the more steel used, the higher the quality and the stronger the wire. From lightest to heaviest, common gauges are 13, 12-1/2, 11-1/2, 11, 9 and 6. Unless you are building a temporary fence, I would recommend fencing between 11-1/2 and 9 gauge. 6 gauge is typically for heavy industrial or specialized uses and the lighter gauges are best suited for temporary fencing.

Measure the mesh

Mesh size tells you how far apart the parallel or diamond shape wires are in the fabric. And that’s another indication of how much steel is in the product. The smaller the diamond, the more steel is in the fabric. From largest to smallest, typical mesh sizes are 2-3/8″, 2-1/4″ and 2″. Smaller meshes such as 1-3/4″ for tennis courts, 1-1/4” for pools and high-security mini meshes of 5/8″, 1/2″ and 3/8″ are also available.

Consider the coating

Several types of surface treatments help protect and beautify steel chain-link fabric.

• The most common protective coating for chain-link fabric is zinc. Zinc is a self-sacrificing element. In other words, it dissipates while protecting the steel. It also offers cathodic protection, which means that if the wire is cut, it “heals” the exposed surface by developing a white oxidation layer that prevents red rust. Typically, galvanized chain-link fabric has a 1.2-ounce per square foot coating. For specification projects requiring greater degrees of longevity, 2-ounce zinc coatings are available. The longevity of the protective coating is directly related to amount of zinc that is applied.There are two primary ways that chain-link fabric is galvanized or coated with zinc. The most common way is Galvanized After Weaving (GAW), where the steel wire is formed into chain-link fabric first and then galvanized. The alternative is Galvanized Before Weaving (GBW) where the strand of wire is coated with zinc before being formed into the mesh. There is some debate over which is the best method. GAW ensures that all of the wire is coated, even the cut ends, and galvanizing the wire after it is formed also tends to increase the tensile strength of the finished product. GAW is typically the method of choice for the larger manufacturers, since it requires a higher level of manufacturing expertise and capital investment than simply weaving the wire, and it yields efficiencies only available with this method. GBW is a good product, provided it has a comparable diamond size, weight of zinc coating, gauge and tensile strength.
• You’ll also find aluminum-coated (aluminized) wire on the market. Aluminum differs from zinc in that it is a barrier coating rather than a sacrificial coating and as a result cut ends, scratches, or other imperfections are prone to red rusting in a short period of time. Aluminized wire is best suited where aesthetics is less important than structural integrity. Another metallic coating sold under various trade names such as Galvinal™, Bezinal® or Galfan™ uses a combination of zinc-and-aluminum, uniting the cathodic protection of zinc with the barrier protection of aluminum.
• Want color? Look for polyvinyl chloride applied in addition to the zinc coating. This provides a second kind of corrosion protection and blends aesthetically with the environment. These colors come in three principle coating methods:
  • Extruded – the vinyl jacket encompasses the steel core – suitable for most residential/light commercial applications
  • Extruded bonded – an adhesive bonds the vinyl jacket to the core wire
  • Thermally fused – the vinyl coating is fused to the galvanized steel core – suitable for all applications

  Be sure that you understand both the gauge of the finished product and of the steel core wire. A product that is produced in an 11 gauge finished diameter which, with most coating processes, means that the steel core is very light would not be recommended for normal installations of 1-3/4″ to 2-3/8″ diamond size mesh.

Fabric should meet these specifications

The following ASTM specifications apply to chain-link fence fabric:

• Specification for Zinc Coated Chain-Link Fence Fabric (A 392-96)
• Specification for Aluminum Coated Chain-Link Fence Fabric (A 492-96)
• Specification for Zinc-5% Aluminum-Mischmetal Alloy Coated Chain-Link Fence Fabric (Galvinal) (F 1345-96)
• Specification for Polyvinyl Chloride Coated Steel Chain-Link Fences (F 668-96)

How to choose a fence framework

As with chain-link fabric, you’ll want to look at three things when deciding on the framework for your chain-link fence: gauge or thickness of the steel, diameter of the pipe, and the type of protective coating. Start with the gauge.

Gauge (ga.) of the steel is an important factor as it’s directly related to the strength of the framework. From lightest to heaviest, common gauges of residential fences are 20, 19, 18, 17, 16 and 15. All residential framework should be made from steel that has a minimum yield strength of 45,000 pounds per square inch. Most people tend to ignore tensile strength and concentrate more on the gauge and diameter – but they shouldn’t. Most domestic manufacturers comply with minimum tensile strengths; however, some product (typically imported) not in compliance does make its way into the marketplace. A low tensile strength 16 ga. post may not be as strong as a 17 ga. post with proper tensile strength.

Decide on the diameter

Diameter is the width of the pipe. It’s also a strength factor, because the wider the diameter the more steel is required. Typical diameters are 1-3/8″, 1-5/8″, 1-7/8″, and 2-3/8″ for residential fences. ASTM makes the following recommendations for residential chain-link fence framework. Remember these are national standards, and regional considerations tend to alter standard practice. My recommendations generally parallel ASTM’s; however, you can use our online budgetary project estimator to give you commonly used pipe in your area:

Finish with the coating

There are several types of protective coatings for chain-link fence framework.

• Perhaps the most widely used is inline flow-coat galvanized. As steel is formed into pipe in this process, it flows through a pot of molten zinc, coating its exterior surfaces. An organic polymer treatment provides additional exterior corrosion protection. A zinc rich paint coating protects the interior of the pipe.
• By contrast, pre-galvanized pipe uses a process that galvanizes the metal before forming it into round pipe. After the steel is formed and welded, the seam is re-metallized with a zinc-rich coating.
• In the final type of coating, hot-dip galvanized pipe is produced by inline forming and welding, followed by total submersion in a tank of molten zinc. Excess zinc on the inside of the pipe is blown out with air after the pipe resurfaces.

Color can complement your surroundings

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyester color coatings can supplement the metallic protective coatings described above. You’ll gain an additional defense against corrosion, and add aesthetics to blend with the environment. Standard colors are black, brown and green. There are two primary methods of coating that I recommend both of which require sound process controls to ensure that the material is properly prepared to receive the coating:

• PVC is applied to the framework in a thickness of 10 to 14 mils – referred to as a heavy mil coating (visualize a rubber-like coating).
• Polyester coating is a 3-mil color powder that is electro-statically applied.

Both products, properly applied, will provide good results; however, the trend is increasingly toward the polyester product. Most manufacturers will warrant the product for 10-15 years. I don’t recommend painting the framework. You might save a few dollars now, but continued maintenance will likely cost you more in the long run. If you want color, PVC is the way to go.

Framework should meet these specifications

The following ASTM specifications apply to framework:

• Specification for Strength Requirements of Steel Posts and Rails for Residential Chain-Link Fence 1992 (F 761-82)
• Specification for Stand Colors for Polymer-Coated Chain-Link Fence (F 934-96)

Fittings hold it all together

You know a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The same applies to a chain-link fence. All steel fittings such as bands, tension bars, nuts and bolts, and gate hardware must be hot-dip galvanized to prevent corrosion with similar coatings as with the framework and fabric. Some items such as rail ends and eye tops are made from die-cast aluminum as well as galvanized steel. Gate hardware is very important since it affects the operation of the only moving part of the fence. The pintel in the post hinge and receiver of the gate frame hinge must be perfectly round so the gate hangs correctly and doesn’t sag. Tie wires should be made from aluminum or galvanized steel. Fittings must be designed for attractive form, good fit, and sound functioning. While there are ASTM specifications on fittings, this area has not been as fully addressed by the industry, as it needs to be. The result is that there are a lot of what I consider sub-standard fittings in the marketplace. Your best assurance is to look for a full system warranty from a reputable manufacturer. One small part rusting can cause unsightly staining on large areas of your fence.

Fittings should meet these specifications

The following ASTM specification applies to fittings:

• Specification for Fence Fittings (F 626-96)

Your gate should match your fence

For consistency, the fabric and framework of your gate should be the same as that in your fence. For example, if you choose 11-gauge fabric and 16-gauge framework for your fence, you should make the gate from the same materials.

There are three types of gate construction: bent-fame, square-welded or aluminum-corner.

• Bent-frame gates have all four corners mechanically bent
• Square-welded gates have all four corners welded
• Aluminum-corner gates are assembled with four die-cast gate corners, or ells

Gates should meet these specifications

The following ASTM specification applies to gates:

• Specification for Residential Chain-Link Fence Gates (F 654-91)

Courtesy of Master Halco – www.fenceonline.com